why does my rc helicopter spin in circles

It s downright frustrating when you take your remote control (RC) helicopter outside for a short flight, only to discover that it won t stop spinning in circles. You may attempt to adjust the throttle, tail rotor and elevator, all to no avail. So, what causes this phenomenon and how do you fix it? Known as the Toilet Bowel Effect (for obvious reasons), this is an all-too-common phenomenon experienced with RC helicopters. It lives up to its namesake by mimicking the characteristics of a flushing toilet, continuously spinning the RC helicopter around in circles. Rather than flying forwards, backwards, or from side-to-side, it remains in a constant state of uncontrolled spin. While the toilet bowel effect is far more common in models with a flybar (AKA stabilizer bar), the truth is that any RC helicopter can experience this issue. What Causes The Toilet Bowel Effect? Now for the million-dollar question: what causes the toilet bowel effect? There are several different possible causes, which we re going to discuss further in this post. One possible reason why your RC helicopter is experiencing the dreaded toilet bowel effect is that it has a malfunctioning gyro sense. If it s set incorrectly, your helicopter will spin rapidly upon taking off. But if it s set correctly, it will detect the normal clockwise rotation, applying the necessary adjustments to the tail rotor so the helicopter will turn just slightly in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise); thus, stabilizing its heading. Gyro only detects rotational movement, so you can place it practically anywhere on your helicopter without causing any adverse effects. Yep, a stiff flybar may also cause your RC helicopter to experience the toilet bowel effect. A stiff flybar will make your helicopter take longer to tilt and change rotor pitch, resulting in uncontrolled spinning. Assuming your helicopter has a flybar, try loosing the ball bearings to give it a little bit of wiggle room. Another possible cause is the tail rotor is setup incorrectly. The tail rotor counteracts torque created by the main rotor blades. In RC helicopters the main rotor spins clockwise. So, the helicopter wants to spin counterclockwise the tail rotor compensates for that. If it was attached in a manner that causes it to spin rather than maintaining control, your RC helicopter may experience the toilet bowel effect. If you haven t done so already, check the tail rotors to make sure they are secured correctly. Remember, they should be pitched in a manner that keeps the helicopter still when in flight.


Many large RC helicopters have a direct drive the tail rotor is controlled by the main rotor by means of a belt. So if you have one of these large copters, the problem could be several things, such as stripped tail gears, a bad belt, or a faulty tail servo. If your large helicopter was assembled from a kit, and is experiencing the spinning problem, it may have been assembled incorrectly. In this case you would have to take your heli apart and reassemble it piece by piece. In smaller RC helicopters the tail rotor is driven by a small motor. In many cases of RC helicopter spinning, the tail motor is burned out and simply needs to be replaced. I know this probably sounds like common sense to most seasoned RC helicopter pilots, but did you check the trim on your controller? Ideally, it should set in the very center of the controller stick. Try moving it around to the left and right to see if it has any effect on your helicopter s spinning. Sometimes a stuck trim control will result in this.
Reversing the gyro won't fix anything, I have the same problem with 2 trex 450's, both spin out of control, I can lift off with the body spinning about 120rpm, speed up the spin to about 180rpm or slow it to about 60-75rpm, gyro on or off, no different, made larger tail blades, twice the size still spins counter clockwise, maybe slow it to 50rpm, seemed to help a little, making the tail drive belt real tight helps some, replaced the head tail with metal upgrades, no different, still spins, couple other Trex 450's at our field, they don't spin, nobody has any idea why mine does broke down bought a trex 500, bigger motor, ESC, servos,gyro, got lots of throw on everythng, I tried it today, guess what, spins left at about 30rpm, I give up, using Futaba 7CHP Replacing a motor (main or tail) is a common thing on smaller / cheaper / lower quality helicopters. Basically, if your helicopter does not use a motor(s), then you will replace the motor(s) eventually (although even brushless motors don't last forever). This is actually pretty easy to do. All you need to do is unplug the motor from the, or, whichever it is for your helicopter; typically, coaxials and FP helis have their motor plugged into the PCB, while CP Helis have it plugged into the ESC, and the Receiver via the ESC. For a CP Heli, go ahead and unplug the easier of the two. Then, unscrew any screws holding the motor in place.


This should render the motor removable without any cutting of wires (unless you have a very basic low quality heli - see why you should invest in a machine? ). Simply pull it out, gently, and put in your new motor. The type of motor or part number of the motor that you should use to replace should be specified in the instructions or online; if you have a very low quality and / or non-hobby grade heli, sorry you are out of luck (which is the main reason to stick with a good of helicopter). Overheating: I've found overheating a very common problem on RC Helicopters. Basically, there are three ways to fix this. One is to fly for shorter periods at a time, which is not preferable and not usually necessary. Another is to increase the size of heat sinks on your PCB / servos / etc, which doesn't work on all helicopters; click to learn about how to do this on your (scroll down a bit to get to Overheating). You can also cut ventilation holes in the canopy or remove the canopy to help, as well. Sooner or later, most non-aluminum will lose their ball link connectors. This will keep the linkage bars (the little bars that connect the blade grip to the swashplate) from connecting to the swashplate. What I have done to avoid buying an entirely new swashplate is to secure the linkage bars with a generous amount of model glue around the extruding part of the swashplate where the ball link used to connect to. Once the glue dries, this makes your swashplate almost as good as new. If you want, you can even put out a chunk of glue to hold the link connector in the correct location. This will probably only work on swashplates, however. For or Helis, a broken tail boom is a big issue. If your tail boom breaks on a driven CP Heli, I think the only fix is probably getting a new one. If however you have an tail motor for a or small heli, there is a cheap fix that works fine. All you have to do is bend the boom back into the correct location (assuming its carbon fiber, which it should be) and glue it with model glue. I also use paper clips broken to a shorter length to add further strength, and to keep the boom from bending very much in flight. Then, wrap the boom and holder tightly together with a lot of masking tape and glue the outside. The result is a boom with perhaps a slight bit more weight, but greater strength. You can also slightly lengthen the boom even outside its holder and secure it this way (which is what I did) and it works great.

  • Autor: Roto2
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